BAD ABBOTS IRISH PUB
1546 (Rear) Hancock St., Quincy
(617) 774-1434
(Directions)

Restaurant reviewed 12/31/98 by Diane Daniel

BAD ABBOTS IRISH PUB Type: Irish Hours: Mon.-Sun. 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. All-day pub menu. Lunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m., dinner 5-10 p.m. Good choices: Southwest spring rolls, poached salmon cakes mixed with corn and cilantro, Lisa's crostini, shepherd's pie, baked Boston scrod. Credit cards: Major credit cards. Access: Fully accessible.

A neighbor suggested I check out Bad Abbots Irish Pub after he heard me lamenting the dearth of good casual restaurants in Quincy. The name sounded familiar, but why hadn't I ever noticed the place?

Address in hand, I walked up Hancock Street, the main drag, and still couldn't find it. Finally I asked a shopkeeper, and the mystery was solved - Bad Abbots faces the bountiful parking lot behind Hancock and opposite the Quincy courthouse.

Now that I know where the restaurant is, I'll be back.

The building, decorated outside with a cheery illustration of a jolly, full-bellied friar (playing off the restaurant's name), is divided into a pub and a restaurant, with a small stage at the end that adjoins the two rooms. Peter Kerr, a Scot, owns the pub with his Irish wife, Ann.

Kerr said that after being open for three years, Bad Abbots is becoming more and more like an Irish pub, offering almost nightly entertainment, attracting families, and turning into the spot to watch European football. The pub, in fact, caters to soccer fans. On a recent Saturday, Kerr opened at 5 a.m. to host dozens of Iranians watching their country in a playoff series live via satellite (the pub has four satellite dishes on its roof).

Despite its soccer draw, Bad Abbots doesn't look or feel like a sports bar. The wood-paneled dining room, decorated with framed scenes of Ireland and a large sideboard, projects a homey feel, and the menu includes comfort food as well as a surprisingly broad and tasty array of appetizers.

The Southwest spring rolls ($4.95), deep-fried, soft-shelled tacos rolled with spiced chicken and cheese, were addictive. The shell had the perfect crunch and very little oil, while the inside was soft and flavorful, and the accompanying salsa tangy and fresh. Poached salmon cakes mixed with corn and cilantro ($5.50) were another hit. Though they could have used less breading and more of the good stuff, the accompanying tomato salsa saved the day; this unusual combination works.

Other fine appetizers were curried chips ($4.95), fries topped with a spicy curry sauce, which Kerr reports has taken the place of fish and chips at Irish pubs; and Lisa's crostini ($4.95), French bread points topped with tomato, basil pesto, mushrooms, and cheddar cheese.

Coupled with one of Bad Abbots' Scottish ales, a meal of appetizers would serve me well. I do wish the pub had more international beers on tap (another area Quincy is woefully lacking in), and perhaps the selection will grow over the years. For now there are 10 drafts, including domestics.

Along with daily appetizer and entree specials (such as Guinness beef stew and Irish mixed grill), Bad Abbots' eclectic menu includes sauteed chicken curry ($8.95) and grilled lamb chops ($12.95, the highest-priced entree). An all-day favorite, Irish breakfast ($6.95), comes with white and black blood puddings, Irish bacon and sausage, fried tomatoes, potatoes, and eggs. All entrees (most are under $10) are accompanied by bread, potato, vegetable, and soup or salad.

I had shepherd's pie ($7.95), which almost immediately put me to sleep (fascinating dinner companions notwithstanding), so comforting it was. The demi-glaze top of homemade mashed potato was just right; the lean ground beef and pan-fried vegetables were good, though they would have improved with more seasoning.

My friend had seafood on both our visits. We deemed the grilled Atlantic salmon ($11.95) to be adequate; it was fresh but blah. The baked Boston scrod ($9.95), topped with bread crumbs and a lemon butter sauce, was flaky, moist, and tasty.

We were also pleased with the rich French onion soup ($3.50), but the Caesar salad ($1.50/$4.95) suffered from too-small pieces of romaine and too much of an average-tasting dressing. Desserts are mostly prepared frozen items, Kerr says.

The service overall could have been more efficient, but was friendly enough that we didn't really care.

We weren't present for any of the entertainment. On Tuesday night, the pub holds a fireside sing-along, which Kerr jokingly calls live karaoke. Wednesday is reserved for the Pub Quiz, a trivia game ($5 a person; you can bring your own team or be assigned to one). On Thursdays the Freddie White Band plays Irish rock, and weekends are reserved for traditional Irish bands. Sunday is a popular family day, Kerr says, though children are welcome anytime.

Soccer is shown every Saturday at 10 a.m. (no food until 11) and at 11 a.m. on Sunday - along with the occasional 5 a.m. playoff games.