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Dining with a view: Restaurants where the sights enhance the tastes
200 Boylston St., Boston (617) 338-4400 Restaurant reviewed 08/15/97 by Lise Stern Going out to eat is often more than just a culinary experience. Sure, we like a tasty meal, but we also want atmosphere. What you see around you while you eat is part of the dining-out adventure, and, if the view is nice enough, it can even be more important than the food. Unless otherwise noted, window seats are a must to appreciate the views mentioned at the restaurants below. Reservations are recommended, especially if you want to get a window seat. For a luxurious Boston dining experience, try one of the hotels bordering the Public Garden. At the Four Seasons, the Bristol Lounge offers a ground-floor glimpse of the Boylston side of the Garden. It's great for afternoon tea. Upstairs, Aujourd'hui offers a treetop view along with impeccable service and elegant fare such as tian of moullard duck breast. Save room for the marvelous desserts. On Arlington Street, go for the Ritz-Carlton rooftop dining experience. Dinner and dancing, with a live orchestra, is offered Thursday through Saturday, and on Sunday there is a live jazz brunch. The space was further renovated this year. The view of the Garden and Beacon Hill from this 17th-story rooftop is wonderful, and the atmosphere, with its canopy roof and wall of windows, is light and airy. The fixed-price ($75) four-course dinner includes offerings such as wild mushroom and goat cheese tart and char-grilled Mediterranean lamb. The most spectacular view of all is at the Top of the Hub on the 52d floor of the Prudential. Of course, window seats are best here, but no matter where you sit, you can see the panoramic tableau through the ceiling-high windows. During the day it's fun to spot familiar landmarks, and at night the city lights are dazzling. Dinner entrees are pricey (mid-$20s average), with an emphasis on seafood, such as the minestrone of native seafood and shellfish in a basil pesto broth. But you can enjoy the same fantastic view from the lounge for considerably less, accompanied by live jazz nightly. Lighter fare such as gourmet pizzas and sandwiches is available until midnight. The best time to visit Spinnaker Italia at the Cambridge Hyatt is just before sunset. Although the food is not exceptional, the view is: Boston across the Charles River and Cambridge. You can see it all as you dine - this 16th-floor restaurant revolves. Arrive while it's still light, take in the sunset, and observe the lights of the city gradually coming on. Entrees include Italian fare, as well as items such as garlic-marinated sirloin steak. Water views and good food are a match that seems hard to come by, but there are some establishments worth visiting, if only for the view. In the Charlestown Navy Yard, there are two options. Barrett's on Boston Harbor, located in a nondescript office-type building, has the best view of the USS Constitution. Better yet, dine on the second-story deck. Food is mostly traditional and overpriced, except for the ``sunset sail'' - an early-bird three-course meal for $9.95, with choices such as boiled lobster and chicken Parmesan. The owners of Charlestown's Warren Tavern recently bought Tavern on the Water, a ship-shaped structure with plenty of decks for open-air dining. The view of the harbor here is the best in the city. Specialties include drunken lobster and scallops saute, as well as pub fare. (The Tavern doesn't take reservations). In Newton, The Mill Falls restaurant is tucked into the corner of a building deep in an unassuming parking lot. The room you enter is dark. But the windows overlook the Charles River, and the falls of the restaurant name are formed by a dam situated next to the outdoor dining platform. A bucolic view, especially at lunch on a sunny day. The traditional-style fare includes scrod with cracker topping and London broil with mushrooms. The key lime pie is noteworthy. In Scituate Harbor, the Mill Wharf Restaurant offers one of the nicest water views around. No matter where you sit, upstairs, downstairs, inside, or out, the vista is great: the shore, water, and boats. The menu is ambitious and usually successful, as with the Asian barbecue tuna and shrimp with ginger and mixed greens. These days, it seems almost every restaurant will put a few tables outside and boast of al fresco dining, especially on Newbury Street - great for people-watching. We favor Stephanie's on Newbury, which manages to maintain a tranquillity near a corner heavy with pedestrian and vehicular traffic. The eating area is delineated by a low fence, and there are several shade-providing trees. Portions are generous, and include crispy potato pancake topped with smoked salmon and pan-seared chicken with wild mushroom risotto. In Cambridge, there are two hidden oases in urban settings. Upstairs at the Pudding has a lovely deck festooned with potted herbs, flowers, and hanging plants. Food is upscale; we are particularly fond of desserts such as a nectarine tart with homemade vanilla ice cream. Homey yet creative fare such as a brunch smoked chicken hash or a dinner entree of pork rib with Asian spices can be sampled on Daddy-O's patio. The decor is greenery: oregano and other herbs growing alongside cherry tomato plants, and a vine-covered arbor.
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