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Type: Eclectic
Prices: Appetizers, salads: $6-$12; entrees: $14-$18; desserts: $6.
Good Choices: Mussels with corn puree; crabcake with bean salad; chicken with chorizo, chipotle beurre blanc; spaghettini, spring vegetables and shrimp; rubbed hanger steak, mashed potatoes; Thai marinated pork tenderloin, soba noodles; seared five-spice salmon; shortcake with berries.
Hours: Dinner: Tuesday-Sunday, 5:30-10:30 p.m.
Reservations accepted.
No smoking in restaurant; smoking allowed in courtyard.
Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Diner's.
Access: Five steps down.
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CUVEE
7 Summer Street, Salem
(978) 744-0777
Restaurant reviewed 08/20/98 by Alison Arnett
My first visit to Cuvee was very early in its existence, that nascent period that can often be chaotic when the food and the service haven't quite caught up to expectations. The whole feeling can be edgy, making the poor diner uneasy, unsure whether to stay or flee. Instead, the first impression of this subterranean restaurant under the Salem Inn was immediately of a cool, calm respite from the summer's heat.
By the time we were seated and took the first bite, it was obvious that Cuvee and its staff possessed a finesse not always found in new spots. The wait staff was gracious, the surroundings understated but handsome, the jazz playing on the sound system entertaining but not intrusive.
And, best of all, the food by chef Peter Capalbo was fine stuff.
Capalbo, who first made a name on the North Shore as chef of the now-defunct Union Grill in Beverly, previously owned the former Hawkes Street Cafe in Marblehead. That popular restaurant was a zany sort of experience where the offered specials sometimes ran longer than the large menu and the decor was mix and match. Now, with co-owner Ron Supino, Capalbo has created a more serious place; funky has given way to more pleasant, grown-up dining.
That has translated into the dishes. Seafood chowder, each bowl made to order, was a lilting tribute to New England, its creamy broth intense, yet silky and light. Leeks, potatoes, shrimp, salmon, and mussels had all been poached or sauteed separately so the ingredients kept their integrity in the finished dish, each item tasting firm and fresh. This was a sophisticated chowder.
Crabcakes are among the most ubiquitous appetizers anywhere in New England; Capalbo's version was delicious with the crab predominating, backed by a slightly vinegary bean salad that brought out the sweetness of the shellfish. A simple plate of mussels over corn puree again showed the chef's attention to fresh seafood, each mussel plump and briny, with a grilled piece of cornbread to dip into the sauce.
Cuvee has a lot of nice touches, from a simple green salad with a properly made vinaigrette -- assertive but neither too acidic or sweet -- to a breadbasket filled with squares of cornbread and small biscuits instead of the generic French bread. The style of the cuisine ranged from Asian to Mediterranean and would probably fall into that vague category called New American. But Capalbo's skill showed in this fairly compact menu in his balance and focus on essential flavors.
Chicken was stuffed under the skin with chorizo, garlic, and thyme and served with a chipotle beurre blanc. Sharp, bright tones bounced off the savory flavor of the bird. The dish was quite delicious, but the reason became clearer in a phone conversation with the chef. He explained that he revised a dish he formerly made with only chicken breast by using organic birds, and adding some dark meat in with the white and cooking the chicken on the bone. The spiciness of the chorizo and the chipotle sauce had something to sink into and the resulting flavors left an impression; with only boneless white meat, the stronger influences could have either fallen flat or tasted harsh.
Several dishes relied on spice rubs before grilling. I liked the hanger steak, quite peppery and distinct, cooled down by earthy Yukon gold mashed potatoes and some wonderful garlicky spinach. Salmon rubbed with Chinese five-spice mixture was even better, the thick coating preserving the fish's moistness. Bok choy and a few wontons filled with crab were nice counterpoints to the strong tones of the salmon.
The best thing about the Thai marinated pork tenderloin was the meat itself, very tender but still tasting like pork with its hints of coconut milk and rice vinegar. However, the plate seemed to span too many Asian food cultures at once, the sharp-sour hits of kimchee fighting with the sweeter coconut milk flavors, the Japanese soba noodles a little adrift on the plate. It made me want to return to my tasting of spaghettini with sprays of green beans, carrots and other vegetables, and plump shrimp because the dish, simple and harmonious, made sense. All the tastes were clear and the addition of basil oil only amplified the simplicity.
Lobster ravioli with a three-pepper sauce suffered from the same muddled tones. The ravioli were a little heavy, and the sauce thick and unappetizing without much flavor.
In the telephone interview, it was apparent that Capalbo prides himself on his wine list, matching the choices to his cooking. The list is concise but has enough breadth and a good range of prices, particularly interesting for a suburban restaurant. Desserts showed the same restraint and care, ranging from sorbets displayed in an oversized martini glass to a delicious biscuit shortcake with an abundance of berries.
Some restaurants and cuisines are certainly more showy, more ambitious than this. But Cuvee shows the advantages of restraint and attention to detail -- in the food and the service. It makes for a pleasant, satisfying dining experience. After all, that's usually what we're looking for.
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