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The Boston Globe OnlineBoston.com Calendar
Canton sports cafe hits home run with pizzas and American fare

Type: American

Hours: Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m.; Sun. noon-1 a.m.

Good Choices: Oriental boneless spare ribs; baked stuffed scallops, chicken Parmesan; steak tips; any pizza.

Credit Cards: MasterCard, Visa, American Express.

Access: Fully accessible.

TKO Shea's Sports Cafe
601 Neponset St., Canton
(781) 821-6446

Restaurant reviewed 02/13/98 by Stephanie Lawlor

If you're torn between watching basketball, a golf tournament or the latest Olympic excitement from Nagano; don't worry. You can do all three at TKO Shea's and get the latest news updates on CNN while you're at it.

It's an older crowd here - a noticeable change from the downtown college scene - mixed with couples, families, and groups of guys embellishing their golf handicaps. "We try not to cater to a bar-type crowd, to attract a more mature crowd," says manager Bill Grady. And on each visit we made, the dining room was as crowded as the bar area, suggesting that people come not only to watch sports and socialize, but for a good meal.

Although billing itself a sports cafe, TKO Shea's serves better than average bar food, excellent entrees and daily specials. Typical sports memorabilia and photos adorn the walls, and 15 TVs ensure you won't miss any of your favorite sporting action, even if you are seated in the separate dining area.

Open since June 1996, the restaurant has other locations in Rockland, Kingston, and Somerset, and with sister properties, TKO Malley's, in Scituate, Dartmouth, and Fall River, all offering similiar menu items.

TKO Shea's offers the usual appetizers found on most sports bar menus, plus a few standouts. The oriental boneless spare ribs ($5.95) are excellent. The lean strips of pork are flame-broiled but moist, served with a sweet and sour dipping sauce. The chili ($1.95 cup, $2.95 crock) was another winner, thick with spicy beef and topped with cheese if requested (add 50 cents), and served with a side of tortilla chips. The boneless buffalo wings ($5.95) were moist and tender, and served with crisp celery, carrots, and blue cheese dressing. The sauce had just enough heat to keep you reaching for your beer.

Pizzas (starting at $3.25) were whizzing by left and right, so we tried a few. They're perfect for splitting as an appetizer, but are small enough to eat on your own. The crust was thin and crisp and the sauce light and tangy. Create your own or choose one of their specialties, like Hawaiian with ham and pineapple ($4.75) or buffalo chicken ($5.95).

On the lighter side, the garden salad topped with julienned chicken ($2.95 small, $4.50 large) had crisp greens, peppers, and fresh tomatoes, and the smoky chicken makes it more of a meal. The TKO Shea chicken sandwich ($4.95) was another good choice. A boneless breast of marinated chicken was topped with a mound of sauteed peppers and onions, Swiss cheese, and Russian dressing. All sandwiches are served with french fries, lightly golden, crisp, and worth the calories.

We were hesitant about ordering the baked stuffed scallops, but when our waitress told us they were fresh that day, we couldn't resist. The scallops ($8.95) were indeed fresh and light with a tasty crumb topping. The casserole could stand less butter though, and the accompanying baked potato, although large, was undercooked.

The marinated steak tips ($8.95) were a carnivore's delight, slightly charred on the exterior but tender and flavorful. The tips are served with vegetable and choice of potato or pasta, or for an extra dollar, substitute a house salad instead of vegetable. Even those with hearty appetites will have trouble finishing the chicken Parmesan dinner ($7.95). The dish has a huge portion of tender chicken, breaded and topped with a nicely spiced marinara sauce and mozzarella cheese, served over pasta, with a soft garlic bread stick.

TKO Shea's runs different theme nights, such as "Roast Dinner Day," on Sunday. Offerings include roast turkey, pork, and beef, and either chicken or lamb. Dinners include homemade mashed potatoes, vegetable, stuffing, and gravy for $7.95. Another bargain is "Terrific Topping Tuesday," when you can order up to five toppings on your pizza for $3.25.

The children's menu will appeal to even the fussiest eater. Items include the grilled cheese sandwich ($1.95), chicken fingers and fries ($3.95), and a pasta plate ($1.95).

If you have room for dessert, order the apple crisp a la mode ($2.95) or the ultimate hot fudge brownie sundae ($3.25).


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