SIDNEY'S GRILLE
New Cambridge spot gets the look right
Allison Arnett, Globe Staff, 05/06/99
The halibut sat on an attractive triangular plate, surrounded by a colorful honey tangerine salsa. White
fish against bright oranges, reds and greens: a pleasing first impression. On top was a mound of sprouts, which should have
been another nice touch, wispy dark green against the fish, a peppery counterpoint to the mild fish and the sweet-hot salsa. Or
it would have been, if about half the mound of sprouts hadn't been yellowed, too old to dance on the palate or beguile the eyes.
THE BLUE ROOM, CLAREMONT CAFE, HAMERSLEY'S BISTRO, HENRIETTA'S TABLE
Setting the standard on roast chicken
Sheryl Julian, Globe Staff, 04/29/99
Today, when the prosperous can eat
anything they like, an ordinary chicken still
has a magical effect. But the bird is roasted
now, its flesh moist, its skin crisp and
golden.
LUMIERE
Bistro shines, simply and elaborately
Alison Arnett, Globe Staff, 04/22/99
Lumiere is a most captivating restaurant,
engaging all the senses from the moment
one pushes the spoon-shaped handles at
the entrance down to tasting the first dish.
224 BOSTON
A neighborhood favorite perks up
Alison Arnett, Globe Staff, 04/15/99
If any restaurant could be the symbolic poster child for Boston's diversity, it would be 224 Boston. For more than 10 years, this small restaurant a few blocks off busy Columbia Road in Dorchester has been a neighborhood gathering place, a little oasis of calm urbanity in what can be a tumultuous part of the city. Walking in on any weeknight gives hope for Dorchester and the city's social future.
FUGAKYU
New shrine for sushi-lovers in Brookline
Alison Arnett, Globe Staff, 04/08/99
America is a crazy-quilt place and
restaurants show that pattern boldly.
Fugakyu is a Japanese sushi restaurant
owned by Chinatown restaurateurs, an
ethnic place that embodies much sleeker
design than might be expected under that
umbrella, a place only several months old
that has been discovered by a
neighborhood best known for its kosher
butcheries and bagel shops.
SILKS
Formal French thrives in a country inn
Alison Arnett, Globe Staff, 04/01/99
Close your eyes at Silks while savoring an appetizer of shrimp with avocado. In a part of the country where shrimp can taste like wet paper towels even at fancy restaurants - frozen, then unfrozen and sometimes refrozen until it practically disintegrates - this shrimp has been treated well. Each big grilled crustacean has a pleasant crunch, and its firm juiciness contrasts beautifully with the soft curls of avocado.
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