Whether your taste runs to honest, simple fare or to the creations of haute cuisine, there's something to please every palate and pocketbook in the south of France. By Betty Rosbottom

Simple to deluxe, there's plenty to choose.

Each year I spend several weeks visiting the Cote d'Azur in France, an area bounded by St. Tropez on the west and Menton to the east. Because eating well is one of my passions, I travel hundreds of kilometers and rspend countless hours and a reasonable number of francs in search of good meals. What I've discovered is that the Riviera offers diners some of the world's best food, often in spectacular settings, and at all prices.

I've had delicious lunches and dinners in small cafes tucked in out-of-the way spots as well as in grand hotels and renowned restaurants on the coast. I've tried eateries so modest they take no phone reservations, others so celebrated that several weeks notice is (ITAL) de rigueur (uqTAL). Plain or sophisticated, these establishments have one thing in common: Their chefs make use of the bounty of local ingredients -- sun-drenched vegetables, fresh fish from the Mediterranean, native olive oils and cheeses, wines from neighboring vineyards -- to create a cuisine that almost everyone finds irresistible.

I've lost count of the number of times I've visited Biot, just inland and midway between Cannes and Nice. The village, famous for its pottery and glass, is home to the distinguished Fernand Leger Museum, but I go there most often to eat -- in the Restaurant des Arcades. For over 40 years, the Brothier family has run this restaurant/hotel, located in a square in the town center. Their straightforward, Provencal style of cooking succeeds because it is based on fresh ingredients, simply prepared.

In summer, tables, draped with checked cloths and topped with paper squares, are set up attractively under the arcades of the square for (ITAL) plein air (uqTAL) dining. There are no written menus. A (ITAL) garcon (uqTAL) arrives at the table, recites the day's offerings, then writes your order on the paper mat on your table.

On my last visit, I ordered the omelet stuffed with violet artichoke hearts, served with mounds of piping hot, crispy fried potatoes. My husband chose (ITAL) raviolis nus (uqTAL) (stuffed with chard and made without pasta) and enjoyed a pitcher of the house wine. This is a place where such traditional fare as (ITAL) soupe au pistou, gigot d'agneau, and lapin aux olives (uqTAL), for example, can be savored.

La Merenda, off the famous Cours Saleya in the old quarter of Nice, has been a culinary landmark in that city since the 1960s. In 1996, it was taken over by Dominique Le Stanc (a former chef at the Hotel Negresco), who has retained the simple style for which the restaurant had earned its fame. The glorious (ITAL) pates au pistou (uqTAL), long strands of tender spinach fettuccine tossed with butter, fresh pesto and Parmesan cheese, is a favorite I order every visit. Their (ITAL) beignets de courgettes (uqTAL) are the best fried zucchini blossoms in my memory; my husband is a fan of the fork-tender beef stew listed as (ITAL) daube de boeuf (uqTAL) and the unique garbanzo bean fries. Neither of us has ever been disappointed with their small, delectable tomato cheese pizza.

Securing one of the 24 seats (actually stools) in this tiny restaurant is a challenge because it is always full and there's no phone. I've found if I stop by the restaurant before lunch or dinner, I can often get a late booking that day or I can reserve for a later date. It takes extra effort to dine in this cafe, but the gustatory rewards make it worthy of the trouble.

Far from the glitzy Boulevard de la Croisette in Cannes, Cote Jardin is a modest restaurant situated behind the Palais de Justice. This charming eatery with its Provencal-decorated dining room and adjoining terrace is a culinary treasure with unbeatable prices. A plate of house-smoked salmon garnished with green onions and warm grilled bread was the chef's complimentary offering that began our meal. I followed that with (ITAL) cotelettes d'agneau (uqTAL) served atop a delicious corn (ITAL) galette (uqTAL) whose texture was as light as a souffle.

The lamb chops, napped with a rich brown sauce seasoned with balsamic vinegar, were surrounded with peas, mushrooms and corn. My husband relished his sauteed chicken, (ITAL) tandoori (uqTAL) style, spread with rosemary butter and accompanied by basmati rice and (ITAL) raita (uqTAL), the Indian condiment made with yogurt and cucumbers.

My dessert, a novel interpretation of shortcake, was perfection itself. The chef mounded a pastry base of crisp, shredded phyllo dough with layers of mascarpone cream, strawberries, pineapple and kiwi. Every bite was bliss.

In the hill towns away from the coast, I've had some memorable meals. In Grasse, the two-year-old La Bastide Saint Antoine, perched high on a bluff overlooking the city, is overseen by the well-known Jacques Chibois. His food is as lovely as the setting. Tender asparagus spears and morels in an olive oil-based (ITAL) sabayon (uqTAL) sauce was a delectable first course, as was warm (ITAL) foie gras de canard (uqTAL) served with an ethereally light celery root mousse. A lobster salad with artichokes flavored with rosemary-scented olive oil, as well as butterflied crayfish on thin slices of zucchini with tarragon dressing were other dazzling starters.

My main course of turbot with small diced ``minestrone vegetables'' in a fennel-scented broth was a standout, while milk-fed veal with potatoes, mushrooms and (ITAL) courgettes Nicoises (uqTAL) was equally tempting. The (ITAL) piece de resistance (uqTAL), for a chocoholic like me, was a (ITAL) pave au chocolat (uqTAL), a melt-in-your-mouth layered chocolate dessert decorated with delicate chocolate-coated caramel lace. Food given this much care and attention comes with a high price tag, but is worth every franc.

In Vence, high above the coast, I tried Jacques Maximin, the newest culinary venture by the chef of the same name. At the foot of the city, he has created a beautiful dining spot in a small house with a shaded terrace. Good taste is bountiful; cover plates with bold modern art images catch your eye as do whimsical culinary-inspired statues throughout the garden. The food, however, was not as satisfying as the ambience. While some dishes impressed me, others were a disappointment. And, the service tended to be on the slow side, even for a Sunday lunch.

A chilled terrine of sweet garlic, a mosaic of sliced, blanched garlic covered with a clear aspic, was inventive and delicious; on the other hand, although poached leeks with soft-boiled eggs, (ITAL) feves (uqTAL) (they resemble lima beans) and mixed greens was good, it did not overwhelm. My (ITAL) panache des poissons (uqTAL) comprised of sauteed fillets of John Dory and sea bass was accompanied by two sauces, a pureed eggplant, lacking in both color and taste, and a luscious butter creation, a (ITAL) beurre de nage (uqTAL).

If my husband's fricassee of Nicoise chicken did not merit kudos because the roasted bird was dry, its vegetable garnish was excellent.

For dessert, a scrumptious (ITAL) nougatine blanc (uqTAL), a light cream confection laced with crunchy caramelized nuts, napped with a crimson raspberry (ITAL) coulis (uqTAL) was irresistible.

On the exquisite peninsula of Cap Ferrat, our group ate outdoors at the Grand Hotel du Cap Ferrat. Surely, the vista from the semi-circular terrace overlooking manicured gardens and the Mediterranean beyond is one of the loveliest of the Cote d'Azur.

We began with the chef's tempting savory shellfish and garlic cakes with dill sauce. Our first course, a cold lobster and asparagus salad, was the only one that fell short. Although the creation was attractive, the lobster was slightly overcooked. Grilled foie gras, served with a (ITAL) confit (uqTAL) of figs, was exceptional, and delicate sea bass served with beans, artichoke hearts and basil was a definite winner.

The (ITAL) noisettes (uqTAL) of lamb and mushrooms napped lightly with a rich brown sauce also brought raves. Two desserts, a (ITAL) tarte au chocolat (uqTAL) with orange sauce and a warm cherry tart served with homemade vanilla ice cream concluded our meal admirably. Service was warm and welcoming.

For an extraordinary meal when you are beyond counting francs, the place to go is the majestic Le Louis XV housed in a magnificent room in the turn of the century Hotel de Paris in Monte Carlo. The world's only six-star chef, Alain Ducasse, (three for Le Louis XV and three for Alain Ducasse in Paris) creates dishes that are nothing less than works of art.

Openers for our tasting menu included garden vegetables simmered with black truffles drizzled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and a plate of shrimp atop a bed of paper-thin white truffle slices.

Breast of squab with foie gras and potatoes, and salmon with a shallot marmalade were superb main courses. The cheese cart should not be overlooked in this restaurant, for it is laden with the best (ITAL) fromages (uqTAL) of the area, as well as from all of France.

For dessert, wild strawberries with warm strawberry juice and mascarpone sorbet, and a chocolate praline cake with gold-leaf motifs made unforgettable endings.

Whether your tastes run to honest, simple fare or to the creations of (ITAL) haute cuisine (uqTAL), there's something to please every palate and pocketbook in southern France. I feel certain of one thing: You won't be disappointed.

INCIDENTAL INTELLIGENCE

(The prices listed are based on an exchange rate of 6 francs to the dollar. Some of these restaurants are closed for periods in the winter; call to find out exact dates of closing.)

TAKE 2 OF 2 Restaurant des Arcades, 14, place des Arcades, Biot 06410. Tel. 04 93 65 01 04, fax 04 93 65 01 05. Closed Monday in the summer season and Sunday evening and Monday out of season. Menu about $28 per person, a la carte, $30 to $44.

La Merenda, 4, rue de la Terrasse, Nice 06300. No telephone. Closed Saturday, Sunday and holidays. $25 to $30 per person with wine. This restaurant is very small, so it is best to try to reserve a table in person.

Cote Jardin, 12, avenue Saint Louis, Cannes 06400. Tel. 04 93 38 60 28, fax 04 93 38 60 28. Closed Monday except in the evening during the summer season and Sunday. Lunch-only menu at $17.50, dinner about $32.50 to $38.

La Bastide Saint Antoine, avenue H. Dunant, Grasse 06130. Tel. 04 93 09 16 48, fax 04 92 42 03 42. Lunch menu at $35, and for dinner, menus at $63 to $91, and $75 to $102 a la carte. Reserve in advance.

Jacques Maximin, 689, chemin de la Gaude, Vence 06140. Tel. 04 93 58 90 75, fax 04 93 58 22 86. Closed Sunday evening and Monday, except for holidays. Lunch menu at $40 and dinner from $58 to $91. Reserve in advance.

Restaurant Grand Hotel du Cap Ferrat, Boulevard General de Gaulle, Cap-Ferrat 06230. Tel. 04 93 76 50 50, fax 04 93 76 04 52. Open every day. Menus from $70 to $80 and a la carte $76 to $103.

Le Louis XV in the Hotel de Paris, place Casino, Monte Carlo, Monaco 98000. Tel. 00 377 92 16 30 01, fax 00 377 92 16 69 21. Closed Wednesday, except in the evening during the summer season and Tuesday. $80 menu at lunch and evening menus from $135 to $153 or a la carte from $108 to $158. Reserve in advance.

(Betty Rosbottom writes the ``That's Entertaining'' column for the Los Angeles Times Syndicate.)

(c) 1998, Betty Rosbottom. Distributed by Los Angeles Times Syndicate.