Hong Kong from a boat deck

One of the small island villages that is accessible from the water. Photo credit: Jeff Lin.

Think of Hong Kong and what images do you conjure up? Shopping in exotic night markets, or maybe eating in floating restaurants? But what about sailing around lush green islands in mirrored waters?

Not one hour away from the bustling hot streets of downtown are some of Asia's most pristine country parks and beaches, which can be discovered either on foot or aboard a yacht. The first visitors to Hong Kong arrived by sailing vessels and that tradition of sailing is still at the core of both the local and the expatriate communities here, but visitors, too, ca taste the splendor of sailing amid the dramatic New Territories hidden islands, and what better way to see Victoria Harbor than from the deck of a chartered boat?

PICKS: Aberdeen Boat Club, tel. 852 2555 8321. Blue Surround, tel. 852 2872 8060; fax, 852 2817 0426; e-mail, sailinghk. linkage.net; www.thepress.com/ bluesurr. Clear Water Bay Marina, tel. 852 2335 3800. Goldcoast Yacht and Country Club, tel. 852 2404 2222. Discovery Bay, tel. 852 2987 9591. Hebe Haven, tel. 852 2719 9682. Marina Cove, tel. 852 2719 6622. Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club, tel. 852 2832 2817.

Hong Kong has seven yacht clubs dotted around the Territory where wealthy members berth their yachts, some measuring up to 100 feet, complete with helicopter pads, elevators, swimming pools and full-time staff on board. But sailing in Hong Kong is not exclusively for the elite. There are plenty of opportunities to take part in sailing and cruising activities with very little outlay.

Accomplished sailors can volunteer to crew in some major Asian sailing events organized by Hong Kong's yacht clubs, such as the 690-mile Vietnam Race. Fitness fanatics, on the other hand, may be attracted by such grueling local events as The Four Peaks Race, which challenges competitors to sail to Lantau and Lamma Islands, Kowloon and Hong Kong Island, with everyone on board, except the skipper, expected to run up at least one of the four peaks. Yet, anyone with a modicum of sailing experience can simply turn up and volunteer to crew during the weekend at the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club in Causeway Bay during the racing season. Not only is it a great way to spend a Saturday afternoon, but also a way to make new friends.

For visitors who have a few days to spare, the ocean sailing school, Blue Surround, offers sail training courses, ranging from competent crew level to skippermanship. David Lewis, the crusty instructor, takes his students and guests around the fine rugged scenery of Sai Kung in western New Territories, where except for the odd speed boat, the water is calm and crystal clear. This area is home to some exceptional beaches set against a backdrop of lime pyramid-shaped mountains, where a walk onshore will take you to some remote and traditional villages. Lewis often sails up to the mainland Chinese border at Mirs Bay and claims to know some exceptional restaurants along the coast that are impossible to get to other than by boat -- a true escape from the crowds and tourist traps of Kowloon and Wanchai.

Looking for a good beach on which to digest lunch. Photo credit: Jeff Lin.

Blue Surround is also one of the few companies in Hong Kong that can organize chartered yacht trips around Hong Kong and offers a wide range of sailing vessels, including a J35, an offshore luxury Sun Fast Jeanneau 52 and Tayana 65, whether it's for a one-day party or a personal health cruise for stress management, detoxifying and re-energizing.

No matter how restricted your time is in Hong Kong, there is no excuse to miss out on a trip on the water. Modern-day junks, the large and comfortable three-deck motor vessels whizzing around the harbor, can be rented by the day for around $2,000-$3,000 HK ($250-$380 US), with a capacity for up to 30 guests. Spend eight hours aboard exploring the outlying islands of Lamma, Lantau, Peng Chau, among many others, where you can gorge on seafood in Chinese banquet style. Then, after lunch, your boatman can take you to some secluded beach where you can digest your food and relax in the sun on the top deck. Ask any resident of Hong Kong how they spend their weekends and you are likely to hear ``junk party.''

The sun sets quietly on Hong Kong waters. Photo credit: Jeff Lin.

Even for budget-conscious travelers, there are possibilities to get out on a boat for the day. Several companies organize reasonably priced full-day trips aboard a junk to see Hong Kong's very own pink dolphins. These unique mammals are born gray, turn pink during adolescence and eventually go white with age. Armed with telephoto lenses and a lot of patience, guests can be rewarded by the sight of pastel pink creatures frolicking around the boat. For those who are unlucky and don't see any dolphins, the next trip is free. Despite being the icon of the government, however, these dolphins are also under threat from increased shipping traffic and pollution. But tourist interest is boosting the local campaign to protect the species, so next time you are in Hong Kong, go see them for yourself.

And don't forget the seven-minute ride on the venerable Star Ferry from Kowloon to Hong Kong, particularly dramatic after dark, when the Manhattan of the East is alight in all its neon glory. What was once a barren rock inhabited by sailors has become one of the most densely populated islands in the world, but the inhabitants are still very much in touch with their nautical past.

(Audrey Snee is a free-lance writer in Hong Kong.) (c) 1998, Audrey Snee. Distributed by Los Angeles Times Syndicate.