A guide on B&Bs in Aspen and Vail

The two mega-resorts of Aspen and Vail, both in Colorado, are renowned for their fabulous skiing and world-class deluxe (and expensive) accommodations. In the past few years, however, a number of delightful and considerably less expensive bed and breakfasts (B&Bs) have been springing up in both towns and along the 1 1/2-hour drive that connects them. Some are historical houses that have been lavishly refurbished, others are spacious new homes built with guests in mind. As many of these are located in beautiful, rustic mountain and stream-side settings, they are equally desirable as summer lodgings.

INFO: Rates: Aspen has seven different seasons, so call ahead for rates. The Ambiance Inn, (970) 963-3597; rates $60-$90 per couple. Avalanche Ranch, (970) 963-2846; rates $75-$155. The Beaumont Inn, (970) 925-7081; rates $150-$295. CLICK HERE FOR ENTIRE LIST

The Queen Anne-style Sardy House Bed and Breakfast Hotel in Aspen's historic West End is the reigning monarch of B&Bs in the Roaring Fork Valley. With its thick brick walls, sandstone detailing and wood ornamental trim, this Victorian building, built in 1892, was the poshest place in town right from the beginning when it was one of the first houses in the country built with central heating, indoor plumbing and electrical power. All 14 guest rooms and six suites have four-poster, cherrywood beds and armoires, terry robes, feather comforters, Laura Ashley linens and whirlpool baths. The hotel has a pool, Jacuzzi and sauna available year round, and a beautiful garden of towering blue spruces, one of which is the tallest in town and lit with 5,000 lights at Christmas time. An elegant dinner or early evening cocktails are available by the pool or in the bar and dining room. Complimentary breakfast is provided. The complimentary breakfast is included. The Sardy is within walking distance of shops and restaurants, and the ski shuttle stops just across the street.

The Beaumont Inn, formerly the old Crestahaus, is the first lodging you'll see when driving in over Independence Pass. It has recently been transformed to a very upscale B&B. Each of the 30 guest rooms is decorated differently, but the unifying theme is old-world European charm with a contemporary sensibility, so you won't have to endure assault by cuckoo clocks and other Bavarian cuteness. The deluxe rooms have spectacular views of the Double Black runs on Aspen Mountain as does the pool and spa deck. The complimentary breakfast is included. In the evening, the Beaumont Bar also has complimentary hors d'oeuvres. The hotel will provide transportation to the slopes or restaurants in town and arrange airport transfers.

The Independence Square Bed and Breakfast is Aspen's only bed and breakfast on the mall in the heart of town. This chic, 28-room establishment is just one block from the gondola, and has a rooftop Jacuzzi with a front-row-center view of the mountain. As this is a renovation of an historic red brick building, the rooms have high ceilings and tall windows with views of town. Despite its window-on-the-world location, sturdy red brick walls keep the noise level down. The Independence Square also offers concierge service, airport transfers, individual ski lockers and complimentary guest privileges at the outstanding Aspen Club spa and health club. The breakfast buffet and apres-ski wine and cheese are also complimentary.

The recently refurbished Hotel Durant is a small, 22-room, French Country Inn, one block from Lift 1A and three blocks from the Silver Queen Gondola at the edge of the commercial core. The rooms are on the small side, but spiffy and bright with brass beds plumped and fluffed with down comforters and ruffled pillow shams. Some rooms have microwave ovens. A continental breakfast is available, and the cheese and wine apres ski snacks are also complimentary.

Situated on a bluff above Maroon Creek across the road from the base lodge of Aspen Highlands, also known as ``the locals' mountain,'' the Heatherbed Lodge is a real find. It's just two miles out of Aspen center, but feels like it's in the back country with its spectacular views of the valley's towering cottonwoods and the creek below. The rooms are freshly appointed with antique furniture, country wallpaper and handmade quilts -- some with four-poster beds. Complimentary continental breakfast is available. Microwave oven and coffee machine are available in the lobby. Free shuttle buses to town and the other ski areas stop right across the street. This is an especially good choice for cross-country skiing, hiking and snowshoe aficionados because it is steps away from a number of excellent trailheads and just a couple of m downhill to the fully equipped Nordic Center at the Aspen Golf Course.

The Shenandoah Inn Bed and Breakfast is a recently restored home on two private riverfront acres on the gold medal trout waters of the Frying Pan River within walking distance of the shop and restaurant district of Basalt, 20 minutes down valley from Aspen. Each bedroom has a view of the Frying Pan River and comforters covered with the unique fiber art creations made by the owner. The co-owner was a professional cook and enjoys treating guests to full gourmet breakfasts, including fresh-squeezed juice served in the sunny dining room overlooking the river.

The Minturn Inn Bed and Breakfast, situated halfway between Vail and Beaver Creek, was here before either of them. Built in 1915, the house has been completely refurbished with custom handcrafted log beds topped with cozy comforters and quilts, antler chandeliers, hardwood floors, a river rock fireplace, a sauna and all the other modern comforts you've come to associate with Rocky Mountain Rustic. The Inn is located in Minturn, an old mining and railroad town now gentrified with antique shops, art galleries, restaurants and even a winery. It's adjacent to the White River National Forest and has sweeping views of the Eagle River, Lionshead Rock and the back of Vail Mountain. There are seven rooms and six bathrooms.

The twin-bedded Flemings Mill Room and the queen-bedded Whistle Stop share a bath -- good for parents traveling with children, though they must be 12 and over. The top floor Tenth Mountain Division Room with its great views, vaulted ceiling and handcrafted lodgepole bed is the top of the line here. The full breakfast and apres ski treats are complimentary.

The Black Bear Inn on the banks of Gore Creek is a unique handcrafted log cabin on its own secluded site in the woods. It has 12 distinct rooms, each with its own tiled bath, and most have sitting bays as well. The Black Bear is close enough to the slopes to be convenient for skiers, but enough out of the main fray to be a pleasingly rustic experience.

The communal Great Room is warmed by an antique stove and the spacious deck overlooks the rushing creek below. Breakfast is hearty fare, featuring fresh baked goods and a daily chef's special entree. Snacks and appetizers are offered at the end of the day. The Inn is on the town of Vail bus route, which can be a convenience, especially when the kids want to go off on their own, and there's also a game room to keep them entertained.

The Just Relax Inn in Avon is one of the few handicapped-accessible B&Bs. This elegant bed and breakfast is situated atop Wildridge with 180-degree views of the Vail and Beaver Creek ski runs, the Gore Range and New York Mountain. Just completed in 1996, this house has wide doorways that provide easy access for wheelchairs. One room has a queen and a twin bed with a bathroom that is fully accessible to disabled guests. There is also a ramp leading from the parking area to the deck. All guest rooms and all private bathrooms have roll-in showers and lavatories. The decor in each room varies from Southwestern to Victorian and each has a private entrance, 9-foot-high ceilings, covered parking, locked ski closet and a large sunny deck. Breakfast includes freshly baked breads and a full complement of entrees from crepes to bacon and eggs. At the end of the day, appetizers are served. Guests can also savor sunsets from the glassed-in sunroom and relax in the whirlpool hot tub.

The Lazy Ranch in Edwards is a beautifully restored 100-year-old Victorian home on 60 acres on its own half mile of creek at the base of the Sawatch mountain range. It is on The National Historic Register and one of 60 farms in Colorado still owned by the same family. This peaceful and romantic place has only four guest rooms. The master suite is the Honeymoon Suite, which has its own fireplace, private living room and private bath. The three other rooms available have shared baths. Breakfast is complimentary. The Lazy Ranch is just 15 minutes from Vail and 5 minutes away from Beaver Creek. In the summer, they have outfitting permits for horseback trips to Aspen, starting at Polestar hut and following the Tenth Mountain Huts route. This is also convenient to cross-country and snowshoe trailheads.

Originally the home of an Aspen Ski Co. president, the Mt. Sopris Inn is magnificently sited on 14 acres at the base of a 40-foot-high bluff with 775 feet of Crystal River frontage. From the pool and outdoor Jacuzzi deck, you can see llamas grazing in the pasture and beyond the panorama of the Crystal Valley to Mount Sopris, McClure Pass and Chair Mountain. A nature hiking path follows the Crystal River, and there's access to some fine fly fishing as well. The design style is large scale with a two-story lobby entrance featuring a unique log and rail staircase. A full gourmet breakfast is part of the package.

Quite grand as B&Bs go, the historic Redstone Castle (also known as Cleveholm Manor) is an historically interesting stop. It was the home of John Cleveland Osgood, a beneficent coal and mining baron, who built it between 1898 and 1902 for $2.5 million, which in those days got you more than a ``Leave It to Beaver'' suburban split level in this neck of the woods. Clearly a dreamer, Osgood brought in stonecutters from Austria and Italy to shape the exterior and main fireplaces, and artisans to craft the woodwork and gold leaf ceilings. Decorators laid in the Persian rugs and tapestries, some of which are still there. The castle has 16 bedrooms, a library, music room, game room, bar, board room, sun parlor and Grand Room with massive fireplace. Full breakfasts and elegantly prepared dinners are available.

Avalanche Ranch is a Vermont picture postcard in the Rockies. The Ranch is nestled in the Elk Mountains and has 12 log cabins surrounding a renovated 1913 farmhouse with four romantic guest rooms appointed with antiques and folk art. The Ranch is on 45 acres of countryside overlooking the Crystal River, and has an apple orchard, garden and pond. Kids can play in the treehouse, and fisherman can ply the waters of the Crystal. The play and picnic areas have set-ups for volleyball and horseshoes -- if you don't mind the peanut gallery of farm animals looking on. This is a very popular spot for family reunions. Breakfast features homemade baked goodies and stunning views of Mt. Sopris from the kitchen tables. There are no telephones or TVs in the guest rooms or cabins, though there are public telephones on the property. TVs, VCRs and videos are available to all in the Community Room or to rent. Pets are welcome for an additional $10 charge per night, $15 if it's a horse.

The Ambiance Inn is a contemporary chalet-style house with one suite and three guest rooms within walking distance of downtown Carbonedale's restaurants and quaint shops. The Aspen Suite accommodates two couples or a family of four in a large living room/bedroom configuration with a sunroom. The Sonoma Room is suitable for couples and has a four-poster bed and western-facing windows that frame the sunset. The Santa Fe Room also has a four-poster bed and private bath. The Kauai Room features an island ambiance with a Jacuzzi tub for two. In-house massage is available. The New Orleans Library and sitting room is the common room and offers a variety of books and magazines. A hearty breakfast with freshly baked original breads, fresh fruit and juice and filling entrees starts the day, and the cook willingly caters to dietary restrictions. He will also create a custom picnic basket complete with ice-filled wine bucket.

The McClure House Bed and Breakfast at the base of McClure Pass, five miles south of Redstone on Highway 133, has four rooms, all with private baths (complete with tub and shower) and European-carved, antique, queen-sized beds. It is a popular stop for people who bicycle over McClure Pass and like to have breakfast out on the deck, and for cross-country skiers who enjoy the trails nearby on McClure Pass. The house backs up to Bureau of Land Management land and has great views of Chair and Prospect Mountains and Ponderosa Pines. One unit, which is actually like a separate guest house, also has kitchen facilities. There is a full complimentary breakfast. There's also a game room, bicycles and snowshoes for guests.

Rates: Aspen has seven different seasons, so call ahead for rates. The rates given here are only a range.

The Ambiance Inn, 66 N. Second St. Carbondale, Colorado 81623; (970) 963-3597; rates $60-$90 per couple.

Avalanche Ranch, 12863 Highway 133, Redstone, Colorado 81623; (970) 963-2846; rates $75-$155.

The Beaumont Inn, 1301 E. Copper Ave., Aspen, Colorado 81611; (970) 925-7081; rates $150-$295.

The Black Bear Inn, 2405 Elliot Rd., Vail, Colorado 81657; (970) 476-1304; rates $106-$215.

The Heatherbed Lodge, 1679 Maroon Creek Rd., Aspen Highlands, Colorado 81611; (970) 925-7077; rates $79-$249.

Hotel Durant, 122 E. Durant St., Aspen, Colorado 81611; (970) 925-8500; rates $65-$299.

The Independence Square Bed and Breakfast, 404 S. Galena St., Aspen, Colorado; (970) 920-2313; rates $89-$345.

The Lazy Ranch, P.O. Box 404, Edwards, Colorado 81632; (970) 926-3876; rates $70-$125.

The McClure House Bed and Breakfast; 22995 Highway 133, Redstone, Colorado 81623; (970) 963-1020; rates $100-$165. The Mt. Sopris Inn, 0165 Mt. Sopris Ranch Rd., Carbondale, Colorado 81623; (970) 963-2209; rates $85-$150.

Redstone Castle, 58 Redstone Blvd., Redstone, Colorado 81623; (970) 963-3463; rates $95-$225.

Sardy House Bed and Breakfast Hotel, 200 S. Aspen St., Aspen, Colorado 81611; (970) 920-2525; rates $150-$750.