Something new in wine country

We had thought there was nothing new in California's Napa Valley, especially in St. Helena, that picturesque replica of a little village in Burgundy and a Martha Stewart version of Main Street Americana. But we were pleasantly mistaken. So, please meet the Inn at Southbridge, a brand-new, conveniently located retreat, brought to us by the same folks who own the more upscale Meadowood resort (just a few dozen vineyards up the road). This 21-room sister property is inspired by the small town squares of Europe and has the requisite Wine Country ambience: lemon-colored walls and minimalist lines,

INFO: The Inn at Southbridge, 1029 Main St., St. Helena, California 94574; tel. (707) 967-9400.

sisal-inspired carpet, down comforters, quilted damask coverlets, fireplaces and French doors that open onto private balconies. Across the courtyard sits an enormous, state-of-the-art spa with a 25-yard, outdoor-heated, lap pool, and fitness center complex big enough for a professional football team.

Thanks to the Inn at Southbridge's central location, it's a short walk to explore St. Helena's downtown -- a melange of antique shops, vintage French Provencal pottery emporiums, and country-urbane home furnishing centers, sophisticated and pricey enough to delight the most hardened Beverly Hills decorator.

If you jump in your car, you can observe a mind-boggling array of the big players in the California wine industry, almost like Academy Awards night: Beaulieu, Cakebread, St. Supery, Domaine Chandon, Trefethen and Mondavi, to name a few. And best of all, you're never more than 15 minutes from their tasting rooms. (Take designated drivers, please!)

But the true find of our weekend was the Inn's casual eatery, Tomatina. It's open for lunch and dinner, and if bumper-to-bumper wine tasting makes the journey downstairs too hazardous, room service comes to the rescue at no additional charge. Headed by prize-winning 33-year-old Chef Michael Chiarello (formerly of the successful Ristorate Tra Vigne next door), Tomatina is named for the town in Spain where, instead of bulls running through the streets shredding tourists, a rollicking tomato fight takes place.

``We wanted to open a community-oriented restaurant where locals and visitors feel comfortable bringing the whole family,'' declares Chiarello. ``The food is simple -- a half-dozen different pizzas, pastas and antipasti -- dishes that people love to eat. Parents can come in, order and sit down without waiting. Meantime, the kids can be playing in the courtyard.''

Our favorites included Chiarello's small, thin-crust pizzas, topped with Margherita 1889 (organic tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese and basil), and Vongole (Maine clams, olive oil, oregano, garlic paste). Other favorites: Caesar Salad, Garlic Focaccia Bread with roasted garlic paste, Cheese Ravioli in tomato sauce, and a memorable Spaghettini with broccoli, garlic, Parmesan cheese and prosciutto bits.

We found that a weekend at the Inn at Southbridge takes you to where your purest, most simple, most favorite memory rests: a tavern in Greece, a trattoria in Italy or a retreat in the South of France. (Travel Advisory: If things get too simple, you can tool over to the Meadowood and play tennis or croquet with the jet-set at no extra charge.)

(c) 1998, Los Angeles Times Syndicate. Distributed by Los Angeles Times Syndicate.