Andrew Davis, Los Angeles Times Syndicate, 01/99

Some places are so removed from life's common experiences that they seem otherworldly. So it is with Volcano National Park on the Big Island of Hawaii. As the road climbs up Mauna Loa, all traces of the familiar disappear. Gone are the tin-roofed cottages, the turquoise sea, the lush foliage and the rainbow flowers of the lowlands. Lava, undulating (ITAL) pahoehoe (uqTAL) and jagged (ITAL) (cq) aa (uqTAL), stretches on all sides as far as the eye can see. The alien lava landscape is black, barren and breathtaking.

This is the province of Pele, goddess of the volcano, maker and destroyer of land. Myths tell how she created the Hawaiian islands, each in turn, relocating to a new patch of ocean as the spirit moved her. Fierce ally and formidable foe, she has long been the Hawaiians' favorite deity, and to this day people seek her protection with offerings of flowers, pork, fruit, a lock of hair and a bottle of gin.

Having a goddess in one's corner is a good thing, so whenever I'm in the islands I go to the local volcano bearing the prescribed gifts. On one particular pilgrimage, I was ginless. It would not do.

Fortunately, the local gas station was prepared for empty-handed supplicants with a variety of brands in all sizes. I picked up a miniature bottle, knowing it's the thought that counts.

The parking lot beside Halemaumau Crater was deserted save for a rare Nene goose that honked a noisy welcome as I picked my way over rough lava to the caldera's edge. Plumes of steam seeped from cracks far below on the massive crater's floor. Placing my offering in a crevice, I poured the gin over the side, tossed my lock of hair aloft, watched it ride thermal drafts out over the caldera, and whispered my wishes into the wind.

Turning to leave, I took about five steps when a thunderous clap cracked the silence. I dashed back to the edge thinking, ``It was just a sonic boom.''

But the sound continued, echoing and reverberating like a runaway freight train. Peering down into the crater I could see the last boulders of a sizable rockslide crashing on the caldera floor. Madame Pele had answered me. Believe it or not.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, P.O. Box 52, Hawaii National Park, Hawaii 96718-0052; tel. (808) 985-6000, fax (808) 967-8186. Eruption information (808) 985-6000. -- Edythe Preet

ANOTHER KIND OF BOULDERS. There is really no excuse for missing the many creature comforts of The Boulders resort in the aptly named town of Carefree, Arizona.

Perhaps best known for excellent golf and tennis, The Boulders also features a small spa facility offering massages, facials and treatments that combine New Age efficiency with a touch of Southwestern mysticism. For example, the resort's famed hot rocks treatment uses smooth, flat local stones heated in hot water in a deep, therapeutic massage. Hot oil massages for head and scalp, as well as pumice scrubs, acupressure facials and herbal rinses are also unique favorites.

After being stretched, kneaded, pumiced and wrapped, it's time to repair to the relaxing solitude of the rooms and suites nestled within the rugged desert landscape as adjoining casitas (small houses). Each one features a wood-burning fireplace, stocked with thoughtful details, such as a wrought-iron poker, a wood bin and heavy gloves for lifting logs. If you run out, fear not -- one call to housekeeping guarantees speedy delivery of additional kindling.

Romantic lighting is achieved via dimmer-set halogen lights. The Boulders doesn't skimp on minibar items, either: A wide selection of pint-sized alcoholic libations beckons thirsty guests.

Rustic, adobe-style walls rise to meet rough-hewn, varnished log beam ceilings, complete with a ceiling fan. Windows are swathed in sandblasted, plantation-style shutters and open to reveal patios overlooking manicured desert fairways.

Bathrooms at The Boulders are an architectural salute to the hedonist. Plush Frette bathrobes; vaulted ceilings; dual sinks surrounded by rustic, Southwest-style tiles; generously sized soaking tubs stocked with thoughtful, nature-inspired touches like loofah sponges; and separate stall showers complete the picture.

And, speaking of thoughtful, a wooden magazine rack mounted on the wall adjacent to the toilet is filled with the latest issues of travel, lifestyle and financial magazines. Abundant natural light is supplied by glass brick panels inset within the walls. Baths also feature walk-in closets and a safe.

The Boulders, 34631 North Tom Darlington Dr., Carefree, Arizona 85377; tel. (602) 488-9009 or (800) 553-1717. Rates from $175 (vary seasonally).

(c) 1999, Los Angeles Times Syndicate. Distributed by Los Angeles Times Syndicate.