By Becky Rosbottom, 07/01/99

An eating tour with friends in the midst of exquisite settings along the rolling green hills of the picturesque Cotswolds brings dishes such as a flawless Stilton souffle, mushroom ravioli and braised lamb to the table, but also pots of steaming tea, scones and clotted cream.

By Betty Rosbottom

Last year when my husband and I found ourselves with some free time in the middle of January, we decided to take a mid-winter vacation to escape the frigid New England temperatures where we live. Everyone encouraged us to go some place warm, but my spouse and I are not beach people and opted instead for a trip to England's Cotswolds, an area of rolling hills and beautiful towns, just under two hours, by train, from the heart of London.

We were not disappointed. The weather, although mildly chilly and rainy at times, did not prevent us from admiring the terrain dotted by quaint villages with quiet, well-kept streets and thatched-roof cottages. However, our biggest surprise was the discovery of some outstanding places for dining spots, where the food was exceptionally good and the settings exquisite.

We were so enthusiastic about our first visit that we returned this year with a group of friends, all ardent food lovers, for an eating tour of the Cotswolds. Our most memorable meals were the ones we savored at the following restaurants.

The Lygon Arms, located in the town of Broadway, the unofficial "capital" of the Cotswolds, is one of the oldest and most distinguished hotels in the area, and was the setting of an elegant dinner for our group. There are several places to eat in the hotel, but the central dining room with its vaulted ceiling and huge fireplace is my favorite. We began our meal with warm, pan-fried smoked salmon trout served atop a bed of garbanzo beans, lentils and tomatoes seasoned with garlic, shallots and parsley. Colorful and delectable, it was my favorite dish of the evening.

Our entree, thick sliced Scottish beef tenderloin topped with Woodland mushrooms, was presented with a medley of seasonal vegetables including buttered potatoes, carrots and broccoli. Although the meat was fork-tender and flavorful, it had cooled slightly before arriving at our table and thus lost some of its appeal. A pear tart made with a pear liqueur-scented frangipane filling served on a pool of chocolate sauce made a suitable ending.

Not far from Broadway is the charming town of Upper Slaughter where The Lords of the Manor, a stately 17th century manor house, is located. Here, we began lunch with perfectly seasoned cream of potato and leek soup with a plump, succulent seared sea scallop as the single garnish. It was a simple, yet flawless pairing of flavors and textures. Next followed a richly browned, incredibly moist breast of corn-fed chicken on a bed of sauteed spinach. Wild mushroom ravioli and a scattering of bright green feve beans and fresh peas complemented the chicken. The ethereally light and frothy "cappucino" sauce which napped the fowl and vegetables was made with only chicken stock and milk.

For dessert, there was an outstanding lemon tart, the best I have sampled in recent memory, garnished with a scoop of refreshing elderberry sorbet. What made this lemon tart unusual, however, was the crunchy, burnt sugar topping (the same as you find on creme brulee) which covered the filling.

At Buckland Manor, another centuries-old manor house not far from Broadway, our table was set with sparkling silver, exquisite crystal and fine china. But if the ambience was "haute," the service was not. The unpretentious wait staff could not have been more warm and helpful as they served us a delicious meal. My husband, a blue-cheese aficionado, literally swooned over our opener -- a warm Stilton souffle surrounded with Belgian endive leaves and roasted pears dressed with a walnut dressing. The souffle, light as a feather and placed unmolded on the plate, was every bit as good as it looked. Poached fillet of salmon served on lobster-infused crushed potatoes and spinach was drizzled with a brown lobster sauce and brought raves from everyone.

But the piece de resistance of the evening was a blueberry and lavender brioche pudding served hot with blueberry sorbet and lavender cream sauce. With both sweet and tart flavors and the contrast of warm as well as frozen elements, the pudding was a definite winner. After dinner we were invited to sip tea and coffee in one of the elegant sitting rooms.

Not technically in the Cotswolds but certainly an easy stop en route to or from this region is the town of Great Milton (near Oxford) where Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons, one of England's most renowned manor houses, famous for its gardens and food, is located. There, celebrated French chef Raymond Blanc and his team perform culinary magic.

At lunch we started with croustillant de frommage de chevre et salades du jardin . It was a work of art -- a small warm package of goat cheese encased in a paper-thin, crispy spring roll wrapper set atop a roasted slice of eggplant filled with diced tomatoes and herbs. It was surrounded by a border of garden greens. Next, a delectable navarin d'agneau , braised lamb served with potatoes, beets and stuffed baby cabbages, was served with a simple jus .

A duo de nougat glace and sorbet a l'abricot made an irresistible dessert. The creation consisted of a slice of molded nougat ice cream and apricot sorbet drizzled with apricot coulis and served with a chocolate Florentine cookie.

If you'd like to stop and relax over afternoon tea while in the Cotswolds, there are plenty of places to enjoy this English tradition. The Lygon Arms serves tea in all of their lovely sitting rooms on the main floor. Sandwiches, scones and tea cakes are arranged on three-tiered stands and accompanied by clotted cream and jams, and, of course, pots of steaming tea.

At Cotswold House in Chipping Campden, you can relax in one of the two elegant sitting rooms and have tea served with fruit cakes, scones and sandwiches. The sweet confections, served with clotted cream and tempting jams were more unusual and interesting than the selection of sandwiches here.

If you go to the Cotswolds during the winter, you'll be rewarded with no crowds, and it will be easy to get around. You won't even think of the nippy weather outside because indoors most establishments keep roaring fires going in their fireplaces during cold weather. In the warm months you can take advantage of the lush landscapes of this area and gaze at the beautiful gardens which abound everywhere.

One thing is certain, no matter what time of year you visit, you can expect superb food in these special dining spots.

INCIDENTAL INTELLIGENCE

How to get to the Cotswolds from London: Trains leave on a fairly regular basis from London's Paddington Station. Moreton-in-Marsh is the stop closest to the town of Broadway.

Where to stay (prices listed are based on an exchange rate of (EDITORS NOTE: Check prior to publication) $1.70 to the pound):

The Lygon Arms, Broadway, Worcestershire WR12 7DU, England; tel. 01386 852255, fax 01386 858611; e-mail, infothe-lygon- arms.co.uk. Meals run $42.50 to $66 without wine and service. Tea served with scones, tea cakes and sandwiches is $19.55.

The Lords of the Manor, Upper Slaughter, near Bourton-on-the Water, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL54 2JD, England; tel. 01451 820243, fax 01451 820696; e-mail, lordsofthemanorbinternet.com. Set price menus are $34 to $50 without wine and service. A la carte meals are $60 to $80 without wine and service.

Buckland Manor, Buckland, Gloucestershire (near Broadway, Worcestershire) WR12 7LY, England; tel. 01386 852626, fax 01386 853557; e-mail, Buckland-Manor-UKmsn.com. Lunch runs about $46 without wine and service. A la carte meals are $55 to $87 without wine and service.

Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons, Church road, Great Milton, Oxford, 0X44 7PD, England; tel. 01844 278881, fax: 01844 278847. Lunch for about $54 without wine and service. A la carte meals are $107 to $132 without wine and service.

The Cotswold House, Chipping Campden, Gloucestershire GL55 6AN, England; tel. 01386 840330, fax: 01386 840310. Tea with scones, cakes and sandwiches costs about $12.

What to see and do in the Cotswolds when you're not eating.

When you're not savoring delicious lunches or feasting on fabulous dinners, there's plenty to see and do in the Cotswolds.

For theater lovers, you can travel to Stratford-upon-Avon, just about an hour from Broadway in the center of the Cotswolds, and visit William Shakespeare's birthplace and the Anne Hathaway Cottage where the bard lived with his wife, Anne. There are three theaters in Statford: The Royal Shakespeare Theatre, The Swan and The Other Place, all administered by The Royal Shakespeare Company.

For history buffs, there's Warwick Castle, not too far from Broadway, in Warwick. The castle, which has the appearance of a 14th century fortress outside, houses state rooms inside that recall those of 17th to 19th century mansions. Capability Brown laid out the gardens around the castle in 1453.

For antique lovers, try to get to Stow-on-the-Wold, a charming town just a short distance from Broadway, where there are an amazing number of first-rate shops.

(Betty Rosbottom is a cooking school director and author of "American Favorites," Chapters.)

(c) 1999, Betty Rosbottom. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate.

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