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Ogonquit
Adventures with lobsters
By Diane Daniel
OGUNQUIT:
A crew member of Finestkind Scenic Cruises shows off the catch on a lobster tour.
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 he first time I went to Ogunquit, Maine, 75 miles north of Boston, I took a friend from out of town. It was late September, and we walked along the beach that I'd heard so much about. There were a few restaurants and shops, many of them closed, and I thought, well it's cute, but what's the big deal?
Little did I know there was a whole other part - Perkins Cove about a mile south. After revisiting Ogunquit last summer, I saw what all the fuss was about. This time I took two children along, ages 8 and 11, and they had as much fun as the adults.
Tiny Perkins Cove is teeming with gift and clothing shops, art galleries, restaurants, dessert stops, and boats that will take you fishing, lobstering, whale-watching, or simply watching. The picturesque harbor is home to about 75 vessels, and has a unique architectural feature - a draw-footbridge.
But the highlight for us was the lobster cruise. Finestkind Scenic Cruises offers a 50-minute trip that takes up to 44 passengers through an authentic lobster-catching procedure. Running from May to mid-October, the lobster cruises are $8 adults, $6 children; call 207-646-5227.
The boat leaves from the Barnacle Billy's dock and initially hugs the harbor, affording lovely views of mansions in the Ogunquit-York area. That's just an appetizer for the main course: checking for lobsters.
Our captain, Mike, pulled up by hand one of his traps, marked by blue and white polka-dotted buoys. We were in suspense as we leaned over the side of the boat to see the catch. For our first stop, we had one lobster that was too small and one that was a bona fide ''keepuh,'' said Mike in his Down East drawl.
While Mike did the hauling, our guide, John, explained the many rules of lobstering. At times, Mike would walk around the boat with lobsters or other creatures found in the trap, such as stone crabs or starfish, giving everyone a close view before throwing the catch back in. The kids loved this part of the trip, endorsing it with the ''cool!'' seal of approval.
Passengers have the option of buying the catch, with prices varying with the market. We chose the low-maintenance route and stopped for already cooked lobster at Barnacle Billy's (207-646-5575), a popular self-serve restaurant with plenty of outdoor seating overlooking the harbor.
Getting there:
Take Interstate 95 to Exit 4 (York/Ogunquit), the last before tolls. Follow Route 1 north 7 miles to the center of Ogunquit. From there to get to Perkins Cove, take a right onto Shore Road, and follow into the cove.
Resources:
Ogunquit Chamber of Commerce, 207-646-2939, and www.ogunquit.org.
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If you don't have kids with you and want to splurge, try the American nouvelle cuisine at The Arrows on Berwick Road, 1.8 miles west of Ogunquit center. Among a handful of New England restaurants top rated by Zagat, the restaurant features romantic dining in a Colonial farmhouse surrounded by spectacular gardens. Entrees range from $27 to $33; book well in advance (207-361-1100).
The best way to work off your meal is by walking the 1.25-mile Marginal Way. Each year some 100,000 strollers traverse the scenic path that connects Perkins Cove to Ogunquit village. The century-old footpath lies between homes and the ocean and affords majestic views of the Maine coast. Benches are conveniently placed along the way, or you can soak up the sun by stretching out on one of the many rocky promontories. Nonhikers can take a trolley for 50 cents.
No trip to coastal Maine is complete without sampling some of the ubiquitous saltwater taffy. We bought a pound of assorted flavors at the charming Perkins Cove Candies (888-55-TAFFY), which also carries a large selection of homemade chocolates. We nibbled on it all the way home to Boston, a sweet ending to a perfect day.
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