5/16/2000

A fashion faux pas helped spoil 1999 for J. Jill Group, the women's apparel retailer that spent the year evolving from a catalog-only operation to a business that also sells its merchandise in new stores and on the Web.

J. Jill Group, under CEO Gordon Cooke, is evolving from a catalog only retailer. (Globe File Photo) The Bulls 1. NetOptix 2. Natural Microsystems Corp. 3. Interleaf Inc. 4. Cubist Pharmaceuticals 5. Seachange International [ See complete chart ] The Bears 1. J. Jill Group 2. Raytheon Co. 3. Mac-Gray Corp. 4. Lifeline Systems Inc. 5. RoweCom Inc. [ See complete chart ]

In 1998, women between the ages of 35 and 55 couldn't seem to get enough of J. Jill's casual clothing, but the company's 1999 fall season flopped.

''We took it too young, too urban, too edgy,'' said Olga L. Conley, chief financial officer for Quincy-based J. Jill, which until recently was known as DM Management.

That seemed to spook investors. J. Jill's stock price fell 74.8 percent over the 12-month period that ended March 31.

In 1999, J. Jill lost $680,000 on sales of $250.3 million; that compared with an $8.4 million profit on 1998 sales of $218.7 million.

Putting the fall behind it, J. Jill reverted to its fashion roots, and early spring sales hint at a rebound.

J. Jill had other issues in 1999. It entered the year with two catalogs, its namesake J. Jill catalog and a catalog called Nicole, which featured dressier styles aimed at older women.

But the trend toward casual clothing has hurt demand for the dressy look. The company decided to take a charge against 1999 earnings and discontinue the Nicole line.

The year also saw the company launch a retail Web site and open its first retail stores, with plans for as many as 20 by this year's end. With so many changes, J. Jill is now positioned as a ''lifestyle brand'' poised for a comeback, Conley said.

CHRIS REIDY