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Dudley Soul Food
Although Miss Queenie Williams wasn't a professional chef, she had the reputation of being one of the best soul food cooks in Roxbury. That's why Skip Lewis made her head cook when he opened Dudley Soul Food Restaurant in February.
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DUDLEY SOUL FOOD
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Where: 2306 Washington St., Dudley Square.
Telephone: 617-442-6113.
Prices: Appetizers $3.95-$8.95, entrees $5.99-$10.99, desserts $2.50.
Good choices: Curry chicken, barbecue ribs, barbecue chicken, macaroni and cheese.
Hours: Tue.-Wed 11 a.m.-8 p.m., Thurs.-Sat. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sun. 11 a.m.-6 p.m.
Noise level: Festive.
Credit cards: None.
Access: A step up.
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Creamy black-eyed peas, smothered ribs, and chicken - fried or curried - are her specialties at this tiny haunt nestled in the center of Dudley Station.
Lewis, who grew up on the edge of Blue Hill Avenue, wanted customers to enjoy homecooked meals - breakfast, lunch, and dinner - like the ones he had when he was a boy.
He succeeded. The menu may be limited, but the food is almost as good as my own grandma's: A steamy plate of fried chicken ($6.99) or a hefty portion of messy ribs ($7.99) that comes with a choice of two hot sides (macaroni and cheese, candied yams, creamed spinach, spicy collard greens), a Greek salad ($4.99), and a drink will cost no more than $13. Other options include oxtail, meatloaf, and pork chops.
The curry chicken ($6.99) was spiced just right - enough to make your eyes water - and the mac and cheese tasted like "Miss Queenie" just removed it from the oven.
But while the food is gold here, Dudley's Soul Food isn't fancy. Customers eat from paper plates and the cornbread is handed to you in plastic wrap.
Lewis and his wife, Joanne, spent nearly a year gutting and renovating the place. They've covered the exposed brick walls with the work of local African-Americans artists. In one corner, Lewis set up family photos, a homey touch.
One quirk: You might find yourself standing a while in front of the counter, confused about how to place an order. Just speak up; the staff is friendly. In time, that snag will fix itself - and it doesn't take away from this true soul-food excursion.
- Tatsha Robertson
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