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Village Smokehouse

Get ready to roll up your sleeves and pull your hair back when you visit the Village Smokehouse in Brookline.

VILLAGE SMOKEHOUSE
Where: One Harvard St., Brookline Village.

Telephone: 617-566-3782.

Prices: Appetizers $2.95-$6.95, entrees $7.95-$15.95, desserts $2.75.

Good choices: Barbecue shrimp, smoked sampler, stuffed jalepenos, chicken breast sandwich, pork ribs, brisket, fajitas, steaks.

Hours: Sun.-Mon. 4 p.m.-1 a.m., Tues.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m., Sat. noon-1 a.m.

Noise level: Moderate to loud.

Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express.

Access: Fully accessible.

Get directions

The decor is casual: red and white checked tablecloths, saddles and steer horns here and there. As the sign on the wall says, "Ain't nothin fancy, mind ya, just a place where good folks go."

The staff is friendly and efficient - quite an accomplishment considering how boisterous the restaurant can be at times (especially the bar, where servers shake margaritas, unruffled by patrons jockeying for seats and their attention).

The open-fire grill sizzles with giant racks of ribs, steaks, fajitas, burgers, and tender brisket. For appetizers, try the barbecued shrimp served over rice ($5.95) or the smoked sampler with two chicken wings, two shrimp, and beef brisket ($5.95). The stuffed jalepeno peppers are hot and pack a punch ($4.95), but there's plenty of tasty corn bread and Lone Star beer to douse the fire.

Pork baby back ribs are meaty and tender; you can choose between regular ($12.95) and Texas size ($14.95). Fajitas come in chicken, beef, shrimp, and Texas sausage ($11.95) and are large enough to share. Even the ubiquitous chicken breast sandwich is a cut above, moist and smoky, slathered with sauce, and topped with lettuce and tomato ($5.95).

The portions are huge, so plan on leaving with a doggie bag. And you'll be back for a fix of the delicious barbecue sauce. Even Miss Manners would be licking her fingers.

- Stephanie Lawlor


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