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Two years ago, Jane and Patrick Bowe left Boston for the 'burbs; the city's loss has been the South Shore's gain.
The Norwell restaurant occupies a spacious spot vacated by an old tavern. Jane Bowe redesigned the space, painting it various shades of blue - natch - such as periwinkle and indigo, with warm accents of orange, purple, and green. Everywhere are funky pieces of folk art, from the art-deco lamps on each of the 5-foot-long, cushioned booths, to the wooden chickens roosting on the rafters. The menu is American cafe style with ethnic twists, such as Cuban pork ($13), roasted slowly and served with black beans, rice, and plantains; and pad Thai ($12-$14), spiked with cilantro, peanuts, jumbo shrimp, and chunks of chicken. The latter is better than what we've had in Thai restaurants. For a happy start, try the baked cherrystones ($7), which share their shells with oven-roasted tomatoes, bacon, and shallots. Or the taco plate ($6.50), which pairs barbecue chicken with roasted corn and melted pepper jack cheese rolled up on a bed of mesclun. The fried haddock and homemade chips ($11) are served on a brown paper bag. The fish, a hefty chunk, is surprisingly light, the crisp waffle chips salty and addictive. Room must be found for dessert, especially the chocolate marquise ($5), a rich flourless terrine bathed in a pistachio creme anglais. It's obvious that the Bowes have children: The kids' menu includes the usual suspects (from burgers to pizza) at $4 each. Service here is attentive and informative without being intrusive. Aerosmith rockers Steven Tyler and Joe Perry are partners in the business; maybe that accounts for the high-quality bands that play here Wednesday through Sunday nights. - Bella English
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