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Le Bistro
It's an incongruous setting, squeezed between a one-hour photo lab and a taxi company along a barren commercial stretch of town. But here in Revere is a gem of a place.
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LE BISTRO
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Where: 731 Broadway, Revere.
Telephone: 781-286-7600.
Prices: Appetizers $5.95-$8.95, entrees $8.95-$16.95, desserts $5.
Good choices: Fresh basil, tomato, and roasted pepper salad; Maine crab cakes; house antipasto; filet mignon; roasted pork chops; Atlantic salmon fillet; chicken penne pasta.
Hours: Daily 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.
Noise level: Moderate.
Credit cards: All major credit cards.
Access: Restrooms not accessible.
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Two-year-old Le Bistro offers a variety of well-prepared Italian dishes in a warm, intimate setting at reasonable prices. Entrees range from $8.95 for a Tuscan vegetable and romano arborio risotto to $16.95 for roasted pork chops stuffed with fontina and prosciutto. Even the salads that accompany the entrees are a pleasant surprise - fresh mesclun drizzled with a sweet balsamic vinaigrette.
The inviting smell of Italian spices and tomato sauce wafting from the kitchen greets you as soon as you open the door. The pale yellow walls and candlelit tables set a romantic tone, though the open room can get a bit noisy.
The service is friendly but somewhat slow, forgivable considering that each dish is prepared to order. Maine crab cakes ($7.95) were moist - not mushy - and came smothered in a grilled tomato, roasted pepper, and caper sauce that gave the dish a pleasant spicy sensation.
Filet mignon ($15.95) was juicy and tender, covered in a wine reduction glaze, and accompanied with polenta, buttery garlic mashed potatoes, and - a surprise - mashed sweet potatoes.
We finished with a superb tiramisu ($5), spongy, intensely sweet mascarpone cheese, surrounded by a dark chocolate sauce.
Paul Yates worked as a bartender at the Purple Shamrock for eight years, then decided he wanted his own place. He said he picked Revere because it's less competitive than Boston and is convenient for North Shore fans of upscale Italian fare.
Yates plans to add lighter food for the summer, such as a raw bar and more fish entrees. And in another attempt at raising the dining bar, Le Bistro has started making its own pasta.
- Diego Ribadeneira
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